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Don't buy a 2850 tractor !

LOWER THE PRICES AND THEY MAY SELL !!!! I OFFERED CASH MONEY OF 45,000 FOR A M6060 TRACTOR AND THEY SAID NO. SO I SAID BYE BYE.

70hp is more then enough to pull a decent size mower. Also you can easilly run a baler with it

I have an idea for a video that I think would be very beneficial for those of us looking to buy a tractor. It would be nice to know what repair work will be needed as part of the normal use of a tractor and whether you could do the work yourself. Plus, what would the repair entail. I'm not referring to regular maintenance, but what could happen in daily use where you'd need to correct/fix something. Thank you for considering.

Yanmar.

I say keep it why go into debt and spend more money. We managed for years on our farm with just 2wd tractors. My dad always said a 4wd tractor will just get stuck deeper. Just like all the 4wd trucks that never leave the road. Big waste of money

When I was about around 13 years old my Dad bought a new 1966 John Deere 2510 tractor. It of course had a 540 rpm and had the 1000 rpm shaft you talk about. We never had a use for that extra shaft, however, it did have a mid PTO that was a 1000 RPM. We did use that mid PTO to run a side mount sickle mower that was made specifically for 2510. If you’ve ever used a sickle mower to cut hay that side mount was very easy to use compared to the three point hitch style mowers of that era.

Absolutely no reason for the current prices of tractors at any level. Inflation is killing most economies and the US economy is creating this destruction. The value of the American dollar is dropping rapidly and needs to be stopped. The market needs to normalize across all levels but won’t happen until the US is able to fix the political issues.

There is now a 1300rpm pto on bigger tractors. Think it might be a european thing have never seen it on the bigger american tractors. Its deffinately on the fendt 9 and 10 series FWA tractors. I think it might even be a larger 6 spline shaft.

Same reason new and used car sales are plummeting tbd economy is IN THE GUTTER! thanks Covid and blue government from all sectors!

what you are saying is true, however I would not buy new because of the emissions and needless systems on board. I prefer the simple tractors of old thank you very much, so until they make what I am looking for, I will keep my old equipment running. Nice video, thanks

"which hole is the right one to connect to" Ahhh... Man's oldest question.

Mike, thanks for taking the time to put this video together. The graphs don't lie. The only way local dealerships are able to stay in business is to jack up the costs. Unfortunately, that has a huge affect on people's purchasing decisions (especially when coupled with high interest rates). IMHO, the industry is reaching an untenable position. As the old saying goes: "You can't get blood from a turnip". I suspect the result will be a bunch of dealers going out of business very soon.

Great video MIke thanks and good luck Holly you will do fine

My David Browns all have both 1000 and 540 and only have the 6 spline .

Here in Australia they want $15000 for a forty year old tractor.

Good discussion…I had a Ford NAA I used to shred for 20 years and had an overrun clutch o it….i replaced with a Kubota MX that did t need overrun as it was built in, but added one anyway. It added length needed since I have a quick hitch, plus figured it would help protect the driveline and pto. Works great!!! May want to have some show and tell as she may not get some of terminology. But as already mentioned….a local dealer or neighbor with sense should be more than happy to show her…. A dealer local dealer may even go there and demo for a sandwich.

All of the JD hate is amusing . Load the rear tires and have some chains available. It will be a new tractor. I would list his tractor and try to get a good price. Adding a loader can get pricey.

The person writing obviously is saying that his tractor isn’t plumbed for a loader, like some tractors come from the factory. Not that it’s inadequate

Mike, I've had a brand-new New Holland TC35 since 2012. I always have a bush hog on the back, and use it strictly for mowing the pasture, about 15 rolling acres. I never realized I had a traction problem.

The first thing that I would find out, is the weight rating of the front axle, the axle might not hold up to FEL use. I think Mike is right on this one, If you intend on using the FEL alot, get a tractor designed around a loader.

Sell anything JD for any price you can get and be glad to be rid of it!

Thank you for the video.

yes , i agree for a couple of reasons your story reminds me of the time i bought a 2wheel drive truck the first snow storm USELESS, than 1 dewey morning i had left my truck on my back lawn ,small hill to driveway it was like a turtle on its back needless to say I've owned 2 4x4s since than ,so agreed for a loader get a 4x4 but that 990 would be nice for a small haying job, rakes etc and if it snows where he is he will never regret the 4x4

You can run 540 rpm implements in 1000 rpm we do it all the time to save time. But those are defitinily built heavy enough

Sell it ...YEP

2wheel drive with a loader is a good combo unless you put a ton of weight on the back

Don't be a fool. Keep the little tractor. If you need a front loader, find a good used tractor with a factory FEL. and buy it. This guy is giving you bad advise.

I say Sell, Mortimer! Sell! At least in this particular instance. I had one, a 990, as a "spare" for my first couple years here, and found I never used it for anything but pulling a small 250 bu grain cart. For the record, I sold mine to a local horse boarding business for $9500 and they love it for dragging their arena and paths. As always, thank you Mike for maintaining this channel. And if you are ever in southern colorado give us a ring, hopefully you have the number still. the gate is always open, and the beef is always fresh and plenty of it. My wife and I would love to visit.

A loader on a 2WD compact can get exciting quickly if you don't have sufficient ballast. The rear wheels getting light and the front wheels freewheeling, its will get out of control quickly. Longer tractors aren't as bad, but on a compact...

I will try it i have a John Deere 650 & 790 tractor see what they are worth

Thanks 😊

Use the differential lock put tire chains on it and Lord of rear tires and for a loader on you'll never have a problem

How much is the tractor worth You never said

I have a 755 with and a 755 without 4wd no comparison. The 4wd is great.

This story reminds me of me back in the 70s. I had bought a new 3/4 ton Chevy truck and I found a place in town that specialized in 4x4. They getting me up a price to turn my 2 wheel drive truck into a 4x4. They got me a transfer case and a front end and said they could do it. I decided not to and if I would want a 4x4 to buy a new one. One day my son and I went fishing with a boat and trailer and at the bank getting out got stuck. Another guy that was there fishing said he would pull me out and asked me how much money did I have and paid him money. I would never do that to anyone. Well that sold me to buy a 4x4. So as far as that tractor goes, sell it!

I have to disagree. I have a 10 year old LS, forget the model number, 25 horse power with a shuttle shift. It maintains my 10 acres and the 1/2 mile long road to my house perfectly summer and winter. My lawn mowers are hydro, and that's ok. I really like the new BadBoy tractors, but the only ones I've seen on the lots are hydro. The only reason I don't buy a new tractor is the shuttle shift is no longer on the lots. It may not even be available. Don't know. So, I'll keep mowing, moving dirt, blading the road, moving snow, lifting and toting with my LS shuttle shift and be content.

There aren't a lot of things you could tell me that would convince me to keep a Deere. "You can't afford to replace it right now" might be one way to convince me to keep it. But that's a different topic.

SELL IT !!!!

I think a stone simple tractor that is paid for is worth keeping. Add a weight box and a loader......Simple.

John deere tractors last forever If not abused I would put steel wheel weights on the back rims and liquid ballast in the rear tires and find a loader for it and use it it will save you thousands of dollars. Usually if you buy a used tractor your buying someone else's problems and especially dont buy one one from a stealership. That john deere is probably worth around $15,000 but you should keep it it dosent have all the electronic junk the new tractors have which is good.

TC48DA w/BH 216 here. Sure glad this engine is no smaller or the cutter is no larger. If you expect to mow your lawn with this combo you'll be disappointed. But the thing is rated for 2" cut and the taller deck will handle cut material better than the "shorter" BH116. It's all about cutting the brush and discharging it a.s.a.p. Like you said, tip speed is key. Good video. If you want a good cut use a flail mower with "Y" blades for grass or cast "hammers" for the rougher stuff. A flail mower is more expensive than a rotary mower for a given width, but offers several advantages. It doesn't extend aft beyond the tractor nearly as far, which is good for turning close to obstructions (T-posts "murder" any mower...) and they don't pile all the cuttings against one side of the mower but distribute them evenly over the whole width of the cut. You always have to "deal with" that windrow of cut material that a rotary mower leaves behind, or you'll "mulch out" your grass (if you don't pick it up and move it) A "finish mower" is useless on all but lawns----all those spindles (usually 3 on a 5' machine), short blades that must spin at high r.p.m. for adequate tip velocity and double-reversing "Vee belts" (which don't "like" to be flexed one way and then instantly the other way) are detrimental to good service life or good results. And that belt costs $50--70! I once thought I wanted one but sold it the first season. Once you've experienced a properly-sized, well-built flail you'll never "go back" to a rotary cutter. The only reason I have a BH mower is that it came in a "package" and the dealer wouldn't discount the cost of it in the sale. It mostly just sits over by my fence line....unloved and unused. Again, a good and useful video for those just starting out. But I do not understand the popularity of rotary mowers (except they are comparitively inexpensive) Thank you for the video.

IIRC, Deere's 9x3 Synchro has synchronized gear shifts, and non syncro range shifts. So you'd get 1-2-3 on the go, but have to stop to go into low tange or high range. They still make it- its standard on the small frame 5e's. That actually may be a good way to get a similar hp tractor for a decent price- an economy line utility. Esp if loader work is a priority. You wont get the fancy doo dads, but MFWD, Loader ready packages, a cab, and a shuttle transmission are all available options- and normally included on units ordered by the dealer. The one near me always has a couple on the lot. Other brands offer similar units: Kubota M; Nh Workmaster, IH Farmall; Massey, etc. The high end compact utilities ARE very nice- but NOT cheap.

I have the John Deere 3005 w/4 wheel drive. This tractor is the same as a JD 790 which was the baby brother to the 990. The 990 was renumbered to the 4005. I’d check with JD to see if they can get a loader for a 4005 and confirm that it would work on the 990. Of course you’ll pay deerely 😄 for the green paint.

When it comes to a JD, I'd sell it. My experience with JD has been dismal. I couldn't go 3 months without a repair. And it came new from JD screwed up. The injectors were out of time and the dealer charged me for a new injector pump. Still would not start. As for 2WD, I have no problem using them for what they are designed for - mowing, raking, etc. Turf tires are a no go.

So no mention if the rear tires were loaded, which makes a big difference in traction. He could also carry an implement on the back or a simple weight box on the 3point to do FL work. I hardly use 4wd on my B2650 even plowing in the winter. (And R4 tires are supposed to be crappy in the winter, according to all the experts) What about all the decades of smaller 2wd tractors that could plow and disc amongst other chores? How did they do it if 2wd are helpless at getting around??

What makes him think he needs 40 horses? We’re talking 9 acres. 25 hp should be fine for most anything you can do on 9 acres.

I have a 4WD 40HP utility tractor with a FEL - its amazing how often the 4WD comes in handy. Not needed all the time but when you need it - it makes all the difference

When it comes to traction I would take a farm all cub over anything modern for mowing over a front wheel assist tractor. My farm all cub will go so many places that my L3901 with r 1 tires will not

If it had a belly mower I would buy it in a heartbeat